Feed RSS XML - Add Content to Your Website

One fast way to add content to your website is to display RSS feeds. While most may know about this, there continues to be a lot of confusion and uncertainty about what the terms - feed RSS XML - actually mean and how this all works. Let's see if some of the mystery about RSS feed display can be dispelled.

Feed - this is just a name, like 'web page', to describe a specific form of information packaging. While you go to a URL in your browser to view the content packaged as a web page, the URL for a feed brings the packaged content to you and 'feeds' your RSS reader, aggregator or even a script to repackage the content and use it to add content to your website pages.

RSS - variously defined as 'Really Simple Syndication', 'Rich Site Summary', etc., RSS is a specifically defined format for content. Just as your web pages can be defined to meet different types of formats such as the various html, xhtml, etc. standards, RSS is a standard way to package information so applications such as readers or scripts can use it correctly.

XML - This stands for "eXtensible Markup Language", and it's one of the markup languages derived from SGML (Standard Generalized Markup Language). HTML (HyperText Markup Language) is probably the best known and most widely used markup language.

To oversimplify a bit, markup languages may have both structural elements, which are tags indicate what a piece of content or data is or its purpose and presentational elements, which indicate how a piece of content or data should be displayed. XML is a structural language while html mixes both structural and presentational elements.

RSS is XML strutured content using specific defined structural tags depending on which version of RSS is being used (most commonly RSS 2.0 now). While RSS does not included presentation elements, html is often included in the content. However, RSS readers, aggregators and scripts are not uniform in how they deal with embedded html as it is not part of the RSS standard.

Now to the good part. An RSS feed is made up of a number of items. Each item usually has at least a title, a link to the full content source, a description which is normally a summary or short excerpt from the full content source, and a date. Since the idea behind RSS feeds is that new content is being added regularly, they become a source of automatically updating content. Many feeds are constructed from news stories and therefore update quite frequently with new items. Other feeds derive from blogs, forums, websites and similar sources of newly added content.

As a site builder you want to provide current information related to your site topic for your visitors. And you'd prefer it didn't get stale, so updating content is a really good idea. It also can help keep the search engine spiders coming back to your site when pages update regularly. To use an RSS feed - or a group of RSS feeds to add content to your site, you will need a script to extract the content from the RSS items and prepare it for displaying on a web page.

You can find both free and paid scripts to do this. Some things you may want to consider in looking for a script package are:

• ease of use and the quality of the instructions
• the flexibility and display options
• how much control do you have over the output being displayed
• will it handle multiple feeds and really mix the items;
• does it allow for a stabilized display (one that DOESN'T update on each page load)
• does it save (cache) the items on a per page or even per display basis
• does it allow you to use different keywords on different pages for each display (if you are using keyworded feeds)
• does it offer you some way to use your own content such as PLR, public domain, etc.

Some of these features may be more important to you than others but you will want to find a package that will suit you now and also give you the opportunity to do additional things later on.

See this Squidoo lens for more on RSS feeds display and to take a look at a next generation script package visit RSS FeedsMaster RSS Feed Display

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

My Internet History and How to Clear it

It is possible to tell a lot about you from your internet history. Your web browsers stores various types of information while your are online which could be used to your detriment. What you do online is your business - as long as it is not illegal - and therefore it is important to know how to protect your privacy. One of the most common concerns amongst computer users is how to "safeguard my internet history."

What Information Does Your Browser Store about My Internet History?
Your browser stores 3 types of information about your web browsing habits:

1. Browser History - your browser stores the URLs (web site addresses) you visit. On both Internet Explorer and Firefox this is set for 20 days.
3. Cookies - these are small files which websites use to identify users and keep track of their preferences. By just looking at the cookies a person could easily tell what websites you have visited and what you do on the site.
3. Temporary Internet Files- both browsers store previously selected pages and images in this folder to speed up browsing. In FireFox this is also know as the "cache."

How Do I Clear My Internet History?
There are a number of ways to clear your online tracks. In Internet Explorer you can visit your "internet options" to make changes to your settings. For example, you may want to reduce how long your browser stores you history for - the safest option being "0" i.e. no days. For this menu you can also delete cookies and clear your temporary internet history and browser history.

Firefox has similar functionality but as usual does it a little bit better than Internet Explorer! In FireFox there is a tool to "Clear Private Data" which you can access from the "Options" menu. You can configure this tool to clear what you want i.e. cookies, cache, passwords, internet history etc.

While FireFox in particular helps you to clear your data there is still a number of steps you need to follow. Remember your internet history is not the only privacy issue you need to worry about. Your computer stores much more information about you which you may want to keep private. For example, it stores your instant message history, the files you download including video files, files you open on your computer and much more.

Given how much information you need to be careful of it is much easier and takes less time to use a good software product to clean out your sensitive data. A good software tool should take care of all your file history, offer the digital equivalent of "secure shredding" and give customers good support. My recommendation is below. Try a free scan and see what potential privacy risks are lurking on your computer.

Richard Rogers is a PC enthusiast and runs a number of PC related sites. If you are worried about your privacy then take a free scan of your computer here - Free Privacy Scan

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

UPS Common Operational Instructions and Safety Precautions

The operating instructions booklet supplied with the UPS contain a few general guidelines and other guidelines that are UPS specific. The general guidelines cover certain points like; (a) Placement of the UPS.—The UPS should always be placed only in the upright position. There are two types of UPS, the tower type and the conventional rack type. For both these UPS the upright position has been indicated on the UPS or in the operating manual or instruction booklet. Placement of the UPS also covers locating the UPS. – The UPS should not be kept in an area where there is high humidity, or exposure to moisture, or in direct sunlight. (b) Covering the UPS.—The UPS should not be covered or kept in an enclosed area. There are certain places in the UPS which are either designed as cooling holes or heat dissipating vanes. These are meant for dissipating heat or cooling of the UPS. Hence it is all the more important that the UPS should not be covered in such places. (c) Operating load.—The UPS has been designed for a certain operating load like either 600 VA or 1KV UPS. It is advisable not to use / connect loads that are more than the specified rating on to that UPS. This may lead to short circuiting or the UPS may trip if it has been provided with a circuit breaker.

A very common general instruction that is given in almost all the booklets of UPS manufacturers is “Do not install in a thunderstorm”. The UPS is designed for indoor use only. Use it only to connect equipment for which it is designed not high capacity motors or other equipment.

Certain UPS are provided with additional sockets, which do not give out backup power but provide surge protection. These are specifically marked on the UPS. So when connecting main equipment like the CPU power, make sure that you connect the line of the CPU to the backup power and other non important equipment to the surge protection line which do not require back up power but at the same time it will be needing surge protection.

The battery that is located inside the UPS is of the maintenance free type; this it means that there is no necessity for periodical servicing of the battery. IF you happen to experience battery failure, you are left with no alternative other than replacing the battery. Replacement of the battery needs to be done by a qualified technician only. There are no spares that are provided inside the UPS that necessitate you to remove the back cover or dismantle the UPS. When opening the back cover of the UPS for servicing or other specific operations like fault diagnosis, disconnect the UPS from the main lines after switching off the UPS. Do not wear rings, or handle other metallic objects in your hands when opening the back cover.

A new UPS should be charged for a minimum of twenty four hours or as stated in the operating instruction manual before put to operational use. Do not keep the UPS in a discharged state for long periods of time.

Following these guidelines ensures a long life and safe life for you and you’re UPS as you use it.

Submitted by www.gedigitalenergy.co.uk

Lee Smith is a technical writer for GE Digital Energy , provider of the best ninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) equipment offering the highest quality of UPS and related software products in the industry.
http://www.gedigitalenergy.co.uk/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

Windows Vista - Upgrade or Not?

The Good

One of the first things people will tell you about Windows Vista is the graphical presentation is much better than previous versions. There are also are a few more features, such as a Windows sidebar and "gadgets" that can be added to the desktop for easy accessibility. An additional claim is that Windows Vista is more secure than previous versions, Windows 98, Windows 2000, and Windows XP. Other than a few more bells and whistles that are hard to use/find, that's about it.

The Bad

Where do we start? Windows Vista has fallen short in several areas. I know some of you have probably seen the commercials where one guy is a PC and one guy is an Apple (Mac) computer. The Mac is basically teasing the PC because the PC can hardly do anything without the other guy (a Windows security feature) asking "are you sure?"

Security is good when it doesn't annoy you. The User Account Control (UAC) annoys you. The problem is if you turn it off, you're not getting the warnings you would've wanted to get. There are also the features that are the same as XP, but named something else. This is confusing.Possibly most important is the issue of incompatability. Many printers, scanners, cameras, and other peripherals don't work with Vista and if your computer is older than a year or two, you probably don't have the hardware capable of running it. You'd have to spend a couple hundred dollars to upgrade hardware and then pay a couple hundred more for Vista.

My recommendations

Just like I don't buy a car the year it comes out, I don't buy operating systems the year they come out. I suggest you wait anywhere from 12 to 18 months before upgrading to Windows Vista, if then. By that time, there will be a service pack released to correct some of the bugs that have been discovered in the code for the operating system. If you're buying a new computer, it makes sense to go ahead and get one with Vista already loaded. It shouldn't cause too many problems and will save you the trouble of having to upgrade eventually.

Devin Dabney is a computer consultant, author, and entrepreneur who is the founder and CEO of DabneyWorks Computer Consulting. DabneyWorks provides remote and in-person computer assistance , website design and auditing, and business consultation.

For more information, visit http://www.dabneyworks.com,

or email us at devin@dabneyworks.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

Choose the Right Photo Paper to Print Pictures

Choosing the right photo paper for printing is one of the most important factors in producing great prints. Be it pictures or text, you usually just borrow what's in the copier. But the right printer photo paper makes an immense difference in print quality. To make the right choice, we must know the basics of selecting and printing on paper for general use and pictures.

1. Paper Basics:

To choose the right photo paper for the required print keep in mind – the opacity, brightness, weight, caliper and finish. First, it is important to know what you are printing. Black and white documents are very different from full color photos. There are some multipurpose papers which are good for both. But if you want crisp, vibrant photos that will last a long time, then of course you need to use paper which is designed just for photos.

• Opacity:

This means how see-through is the paper? The more the opacity, less of the printed text will bleed through to the other side. This is especially important for double-sided prints. High opacity paper is considered good for documents such as brochures, newsletters and calendars. Photo papers have high opacity of about 94-97 usually.

• Weight:

Paper weight is expressed in pounds (lb.) or as grams per square meter (g/m2).This ranges from light weight newsprint to very heavy cardboard. Mostly quality business paper is 20 to 24 pound bond; the greeting card paper is heavier – usually in the range of 60 – 65 lb.

• Brightness:

Brightness basically means the amount of light reflected from the surface of the paper. Higher brightness will produce crisper text with better contrast and a brighter background for color and images. It is expressed in numbers 1 to 100. Photo papers have brightness number in high 90's. But then not all papers are labeled with their brightness rating. You will simply have to compare two or more papers side by side to measure up their brightness.

• Caliper:

This is basically the thickness of the paper. Thickness affects its handling; whether the paper is stiffer and will resist creases and tears etc. Its unit of measure is 'mil'. Photo paper is usually 7 to 10 mils thick.

• Finish:

The finish of the paper can be matte glossy with lessening degrees of glossiness as semi-gloss, soft-gloss or satin-gloss. It is the coating on paper as glossy photo paper gives the printed photos the look and feel of photographs. Glossy papers take time in drying as the coating keeps the paper from readily absorbing the ink. However, quick dry gloss finishes are available nowadays. Mirror-like finish of high-gloss media is preferred for color photographs and smooth matte finishes for black and white photographs and business documents.

2. Type of ink used

After understanding the paper basics the next point of consideration is the type of ink being used. Inkjet printers use either dye-based or pigment-based inks. Some papers are compatible with dye-based inks and some yield superb results with pigment-based inks and some are attuned to both ink types. Generally photo-quality desktop inkjet printers use dye-based inks. Listed below are a few of the well-known pigment-based printer modals available at present. EPSON STYLUS Photo 2000P, EPSON STYLUS Photo 2100 and 2200, EPSON C70, C80 and C82. So if your printer does not fall in the mentioned modal number, it uses dye-based inks.

Ann Woods is the technical editor for Ask 4 Ink Cartridges - an online store that specializes in providing Discount Inkjet Cartridges, Laser Toner and Office Supplies at extremely competitive prices.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

Running Microsoft Vista on MacBook - Works Like a Charm!

The very first thing after setting up my brand new sparkling white MacBook (2GHZ) to install necessary updates and download Boot camp. Bootcamp is a partition manager and currently still available for free as it is in BETA. By then I already had some concerns as I had only bought an update to an old 2K license I have which would require a "clean" update anyway - so fingers crossed and let's hope for the best!

I should have read the Boot Camp user file first - than I would have know that the Win2K update was a bit too ambitious! Luckily I had not opened the my Vista Home Premium upgrade box an could return it and buy the FULL version.

With all the requirements fulfilled I took a deep breath and started the process in MacOSX:

Read the "read me" file coming with Bootcamp

Print out the User guide (or have it on a second PC)

Installing Bootcamp - no problem at all - just double click the file you just downloaded and follow the screens, I decided to go for the 32GB FAT partition and will most likely use the laptop with a small external Hard drive or maybe upgrade to a bigger one later on.

During the process you will have to insert a CD where Bootcamp will save the required vista drivers for your MacBook.

The MacBook then restarted directly in Windows mode and asks you to insert the operation system you wish to install. In my case the Vista Home Premium CD followed by the serial number. I also allowed the system to check the number directly online. (You can also upgrade from Microsoft XP but will need in this case to install XP first and upgrade with Vista later.)

Vista Installation started and about 30 minutes and a few restarts later everything was done!

That certainly was the easiest OS installation I had done so far - and I now have the choice between OSX 10 (Tiger) and Vista - on a beautiful sleek looking laptop - what more could I want?

I cannot say much about the performance with this setup - but I would not count on the promised 6 hours maximum battery life With regards to software running under Vista - Firefox and Skype work just fine as well as of course Office applications. If you are using Zone Laps as a firewall you will be disappointed as I could not get it running just yet.

So far so good - that's all I can report at the moment but I thought I let you know anyway. Simply because if you are going into a computer store and ask the staff - I only got a very weak smile when I wanted to buy the Apple Mac + Vista, alongside some recommendations buying "VistaforMac" (which as far as I know does not exist!) or emulator software.

Anyway - It works!

Anja began her career in Information Technology more than 11 years ago as a Graphic and Web Designer. As one of the project managers, Anja was responsible for the launch of the international website for the car manufacturer BMW (http://www.bmw.com) and has also worked on web projects for national television in Germany (SWR) and the DTI in the UK.

http://www.tetridia.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

Tips on Comparing Prices on Projectors

Buying a projector is an investment that you want to be sure you make wisely. So taking the time to do some comparison shopping when it comes to prices is simply a smart thing to do and something you certainly won’t regret.

There are several ways you can go about comparing prices on projectors. The first is to visit electronics stores and office supply stores that sell projectors and check out their prices in the stores. This is an especially good method during sales. It’s also a great way to get a good deal locally because many stores will offer to beat their competitors’ best price by a certain percentage, which can save you even more money.

You can also research and compare prices on projectors online. Doing your projector price comparison shopping online makes it possible for you to check out a much larger number of prices on projectors than you can do by going from store to store. This will also make it possible for you to check out the prices on a wider number of brand name projectors and even look into the prices of used projectors. Online auction sites such as eBay are great places to compare prices on used projectors.

Consumer report magazines are also a good resource for comparing prices on various projectors. These reports have the advantage of also rating the projectors, so you can compare quality as well as prices on projectors.

This is an important part of comparing prices on anything, whether it’s projectors or cars. You want to get the most value for your money, and that means that many times a medium priced item is actually a better value than a higher priced one because it has more features than a stripped down top brand name one has.

Also, even before you start comparing prices on projectors, it’s a good idea to have a budget in mind for what you’re willing to spend for your projector. This will help you focus your price comparison, although you don’t want to rule out looking into projectors that may cost more than you’ve budgeted for because you may run into an unexpected bargain as you do your research.

And if the thought of doing all the research needed to compare prices on projectors sounds like work to you, remember that at least half the fun of making any purchase is in the search! Make a game of it and see just how great a projector you can find for the least amount of money, thanks to your savvy comparison shopping. Then take those savings and splurge on something just for you!

Jim Gelder is a contributing writer for projectorian.com – a website dedicated to offering information about projectors and projector rentals and also features a listing of local companies that offer LCD projector rentals, New York projector rentals and more.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

Does Your Car Engine Backfire?

Does your vehicle engine run ok?

Or does it cut-out on you sometimes when your are going to visit your in-laws?

Does it *spit* and *sputter* and *backfire*, then start running ok, again?

Symptoms of this nature can be several things.

• You could have a sparkplug wire shorting out.

• You could have an electrical wire shorting out.

• You may have some water in the fuel tank.

Let’s take the most common of these three mentioned.

Over the years you cannot keep they fuel tank full at all times.

With a fuel tank half full, the upper part can cause condensation.

This condensation will slowly build up and run down into the bottom of the tank.

When you start to pass another vehicle you call upon the fuel pump to give me more gasoline.

The fuel pump starts working overtime and picks up more fuel, then the water goes into the line along with the gasoline.

The fuel filter catches this water and since water is heavier than gasoline, it drops to the bottom of the filter.

After awhile though, you come up behind me, and I’m not driving quite as fast as you would like to go, so you floorboard it and go around me.

What happens when you floorboard it?

Right, you are asking for more fuel.

With the filter partially full of condensation, water, some of it gets picked up into the fuel line and goes to the carburetor or injector.

“Chug-a-lug, chug-a-lug, Pow!”

Purr, purr, purr.

See what happens?

You can solve this problem, most of the time, by changing the fuel filter two or three times a year.

Now, if you have just filled up at the pump, and your car starts acting this way, you may have to take the fuel tank off and clean it out.

Or, pay someone else to do it!

Tommy Sessions has been in auto repair since 1970. He publishes Auto Repair Answers Newsletter so you can learn how to keep your vehicle looking new, running safely and efficiently, while you save money and time...also, learn how to avoid shop rip offs. Don't be at the mercy of the dealerships and auto repair shops...they will have more respect for you.

http://www.auto-repair-answers.com

Top Ten Reasons For No-Start Vehicles

1. Electric fuel pump failure /fuel filter restriction

One of the most common no-start problems I have seen in recent times is the failure of in-tank electric fuel pumps, primarily due to lack of proper scheduled maintain on the vehicle owners part of not having the fuel filter changed at the proper intervals, sure some fuel filters can cost approx. $100.00 and up to replace several times a year but in some vehicles such as late 90s Jeep Gran Cherokees replacing the fuel pump costs nearly $800.00! How many times do you want to pay that?

Also another cause for premature fuel pump failure is allowing the fuel level to get to below ¼ tank and below for extended periods or running completely out of fuel running out of fuel allows the electric fuel pump to run "dry" which nearly immediately ruins the pump.

Vortec Design GM engines 4.3L, 5.7L with the CPI fuel injection system the CPI unit fails in many different ways; the plastic tubes leak, the "poppets get plugged, the fuel pressure regulator leaks.

2. Timing Belt Failure / Timing belt tensioner failure

Timing belts are designed to last approx. 40,000-60,000 miles under normal use not changing the timing belt before it "breaks" can result in expensive engine damage in some vehicles, such as Honda, Acura, Nissan, and Mitsubishi. Always have the timing belt changed a little before the recommended change interval and check the tensioner replace if questionable. Timing belt tensioner failure is common.

3. Distributor Failure / Including Ignition control modules

Mid 80s Gm 4 cyl. V-6s

Most all GMs with Electronic distributor 4, cylinder, V-6, V-8 1988-1998)

80s / 90s Ford TFI ignition (grey module bolted to outside of distributor)

Ford Pick-up assemblies inside the distributor

I have seen many distributor failures on Hondas especially due to bearing failure.

4. ECM/ PCM Failure (computer)
5. Primarily on mid 80s GM products with 2.8L engines and "W" in the 8^th position of the VIN #
6. Alternators

Most problem alternator I have seen is the CS130 /CS130D on some mid 80s GMs for the CS130 and on later GMs the CS130D on like 92 and later makes like Gran Am, Gran Prix, etc.

7. Crank / Cam Sensors

Late model 92-93 Chrysler vehicles with 3.3L engine Caravan, Voyager,

Mid 80s GMs 2.0L crank sensors 2.5 L crank sensors

Mid 80s- early 90s GM V-6s crank sensors

90s Jeeps 4.0L engines cam/ crank sensors

Mitsubishi Galant 4 cyl engines crank sensors (failure due to balance belt failure and broken belt cuts sensor wires and damages sensor)

8. Batteries/ Cables /Clamps

Many neglected corroded Batteries find their way to our facility; Batteries do not last forever! Poor Maintenance practices cause many many battery failures which often leads to other problems.

9. Electrical Problems

Ford ignition switches, in escorts in the early 90s the electrical portion of the ignition switch will separate inside, some ford ignition switches have been known to cause fires!

10. Miscellaneous

Vehicles out of fuel due to inaccurate fuel gauges

Engines locked up due to lack of oil

Plugged Exhaust systems (catalytic converters

Teeth missing or worn off the flywheel cannot turn the engine over

Bad fuel injectors

But I have NEVER seen or heard of a car not starting or running bad due to the brand of gasoline being used!

Randy Harkins

Owner, Technician Ace Automotive

http://www.aceautomotive1.com

fixit@aceautomotive1.com

Honda Civic Performance

When upgrading your Honda Civic, there are three basic things most people would like to do to gain performance, style, and looks. The first is a body kit. Next, most people want to add personalization to the interior. Last, we want to talk about engine modifications. These upgrades you may want to do in any particular order, depending on your personality. I started with my engine. I want my car to be a “sleeper”. When I add a body kit, then I’ll have the muscle to back it up. But it all depends on you. Let’s start with the body kit for your Honda Civic.

If you have a pre-1988 Honda Civic, body kits were made, but they are hard to find. There really wasn’t much of an internet, so the market was limited to larger cities or Japan. Today, you could search for a used Mugen kit and probably find one on the internet. For later Civics, there are a couple of good choices. Stillen and Greddy offer quality components. When purchasing bargain components, remember you may have to modify the kit for proper alignment. For example, the exhaust may not be exactly in the right spot. Rework time to your Civic may end up costing you as much as a higher quality kit. I’ve looked at the kits you can buy a piece at a time due to my budget. Adding the front air dam to keep the car on the ground, side skirts and a rear valance all at once can be a little imposing on the pocketbook.

Interior modifications may not impress anyone as you drive down the street, but if the car looks good on the outside, you’ll want that Civic sharp on the inside. A torn seat or other imperfections are a good place to start. Most people start with the radio. But if you have a newer Civic or Accord and the radio is already pretty good, what can you do to add your own style? Add some gauges. You can add a pillar mount gauges the A-frame that supports the roof. A company called Lotek makes nice gauge pods.

When you add the gauges, now you have interior style and you can keep better check on your motor instead of relying on a red warning light. The first thing to do is get a free flowing intake. Not only do these look good in the engine compartment, but also they help the car breath better. There are several to choose from, but I’m biased towards K & N Products. They fit perfectly and are completely washable. Be warned, you can here the engine breathing when you hit the gas! It’s so cool!

I hope these gave you a good starting point on what you can do with your Honda Civic, Accord, or Prelude. Personalizing your car makes it your car, not just another Honda.

Stuart Simpson collects information and pictures on Honda cars at http://www.hondalinks.com

How To Repair Your Car's Power Windows

As you’re driving down the turnpike and approaching the tollbooth, you reach for the switch to lower your window and nothing happens. The switch moves but the window does not budge. Not even a noise from the window motor can be heard which strongly suggests to you that the device is not functioning. You must stop your car and open up the door to pay the attendant before continuing on your trip. Thoughts of an expensive car repair bill are dancing through your head, putting you in a foul mood and tempering the anticipated fun of your getaway weekend. Don’t despair: you can repair the power window yourself and save a bundle over expensive dealership charges. Let’s take a look at the steps you can take to fix the problem yourself and save a lot of cash in the process.

Before assuming that the window regulator must be replaced you should first rule out the possibility of dirty electrical contacts. On most cars the main power for all switches goes through the master switch located at the driver’s console. Sometimes the switch is dirty causing the window to malfunction. If this is the case, take the necessary steps to clean the contact and your problem should be resolved.

Should you determine that the contacts are clean and your switch is functioning, then it is likely that the motor has burned out and is in need of replacing. Whether you are installing a Honda window regulator or a Volkswagen window regulator, or a regulator for any other make the steps involved in replacing a window regulator are usually quite similar:

1. Remove the door panel for the affected window.

2. Locate and remove the bolts holding the regulator to the door; it is likely you will have to manually lower the window in order to access the bolts.

3. Remove the old regulator, disconnect all wiring, and replace the old regulator with a new one you have purchased from a parts supplier. Shop online to find the best value as you will pay a mint if you order one through a dealership.

4. Tighten the bolts holding the new regulator and reinstall the moisture barrier. Make sure all the wires are put back in the door before closing the door panel.

5. Engage the power window switch and the new regulator should work unimpeded.

Of course, follow your car’s repair manual for specific instructions.

I’ve given to you a general outline to convince you that this is a task that even a novice mechanic can handle – in other words: you can do it! By handling the problem yourself, you’ll save plenty of money by avoiding garages who will mark up the replacement part as well as tack on several hours of labor costs to your bill. Shop online to compare prices and to receive the best shipping and handling arrangements available.

Matt is a contributing writer for Car Parts Stuff.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/